Monday, September 2, 2013

The Main Event ... Part II

Don’t worry, I’ll keep the account of this wedding shorter than the last.  Thankfully (as you might imagine) a lot of the traditions are the same between the boy’s and girl’s weddings so that well help.

The day started much like the other wedding day, except this time in a lot more relaxed fashion since we only had to make sure that we were ready and not the entire wedding (it was Etibar’s family’s turn to worry about all that!).  We made our way to the salon for our hair (and my make-up since I knew, and had it confirmed for me, that I would be given a hard time if I only got all Azeri-qəşəng for one wedding).  On my way home from the salon, walking by myself, I had a good laugh when I a man stopped me to ask where someone lived and it was clear that he thought I was Azeri until I told him I was a guest in the village – for someone who usually sticks out so much here, I always get excited when I somehow blend in (this time my camouflage was ridiculous quantities of eye shadow and fake lashes apparently).

Ramina got home from the salon not long after us and we had the obligatory photo session until Etibar arrived.  For the groom’s wedding, the bride always wears white (for the first wedding, it is her choice what color she wants to wear and it can be white, but the white dresses are generally more expensive to rent).  It was generally agreed that Raminə looked better at this second wedding than the first (Azeris love to make comparisons!  Especially really awkward ones!). 


Need to have an evil eye somewhere when you’re looking that beautiful!  It’s just begging for jealous eyes to bring harm to you so you gots to have that protection!

Unlike at the girl’s wedding where the couple left soon after Etibar arrived, this time there were a lot more rituals that had to be performed before they could go.  First my cousin (usually it would be the bride’s brother but since she doesn’t have a brother it was our cousin) tied a red ribbon around Raminə’s waist, promising to buy her a crib when she had her first child (sometime the promises are more outlandish – a refridgerator, a car, etc – and usually something different is offered depending if the child is a boy or a girl – with the presents for a boy being better, obviously).  Next my mother came and tied a handkerchief with money around Raminə’s hand.  Usually the handkerchief has a good amount of money in it, maybe $50-100.  This time ours had that, but also two coins.  When the girls’ father died and his things were sent back from the clinic in Baku, there were 6 coins in his pocket.  Apparently my sisters talked then about how on their wedding days my mother would give each of them two of the coins like they came from their father.  My mom was pretty emotional every time she would go to speak for the wedding video at our house (before the girl’s wedding I think all she managed to get out was “Let them be happy” before she got too choked up) and almost couldn’t get through it again this time, so I was pretty proud of her.  Then the last thing was that my uncle led Raminə in a circle around a lamp on the floor.  This was the lamp that her yengə (essentially the older, married female relative or family friend assigned to help the bride throughout the ready and in preparation for the wedding night – in this case, Raminə’s aunt, Vüsalə) carries throughout both of the weddings.  It obviously has some symbolic value, and I remember asking about it when I was living here before, but I feel like no one could really explain it to me (that, or I just forgot) so sorry, I can’t explain it to you.  The groom has a similar female relative from his side (although I don’t know what their responsibilities are seeing as I feel like they don’t have the same advisory role…) and she carries a mirror that I also don’t really know the reasoning behind.



When Raminə and Etibar left, this time instead of going straight to the wedding, they had to drive to Etibar’s house.  None of the bride’s family usually goes, but they arranged a car to take me along so that I could see everything and take pictures.  This was the first time Raminə had ever been to what as of that night would be her home, so that’s pretty cool.  She had seen the pictures that I took the day we carried all of her dowry over there and set things up, but had never actually been there.  Apparently these days some brides who are a bit inappropriate go over to the groom’s house before the wedding, but in talking to me about this, my sisters indicated that this was clearly shameful and older women especially judge these young brides, so we couldn’t have any of that.

At Etibar’s house, there was a whole other set of rituals to go through: first a sheep is killed before the couple and a bit of the blood is put on their foreheads, then Raminə had to step on and break I believe 3 glass plates, then they sort of waved some bread over their heads – I don’t remember seeing that one before so that was new to me.  Then we took a few pictures and were on our way!


This wedding as a lot tamer than our wedding, less dancing and all that (I know I’m biased, but our wedding was definitely the better of the two – and people around the village seem to agree with me).  As the family of the bride, we are supposed to be more reserved and sort of shy/embarrassed at the groom’s wedding, so we didn’t really get to do very much dancing except when we were called specifically to speak/dance.  The good part about not dancing, though, was that I got to eat way more kabob at this wedding :) which always makes me happy.  There was a lot of debate over whether or not the bride’s family should stay until the end of the wedding or not.  We ended up staying (although my mom left a bit earlier).  Everyone seemed to be using the narrative of “Jess wants to stay” to justify our continued presence (despite the fact that everytime they would ask me if we should stay or go I would tell them that I would do whatever they wanted us to do/felt was appropriate, not wanting to bring shame to the family or anything like that) because secretly they all really wanted to stay.

The end of the wedding was fairly anticlimatic because, after about 6 hours of loud music and way too much food, pretty much the only people still left were the groom’s close family and our family.  Raminə threw her bouquet (I think they got this idea from American movies) but apparently in Azerbaijan anyone can catch it, so my middle-aged, married, male neighbor caught it.  Then Etibar and Raminə each popped a huge balloon with their name on it which had been used at both weddings for decoration on the daises where they sat (they spelled Etibar’s name wrong on his balloon – Ehtibar – so that was kind of disappointing, especially since it was wrong then for both weddings!).  Once all that was done, they set off for Etibar’s (and now Raminə’s!) house and we went home and crashed!  These weddings are exhausting!

View from the dais during the wedding, you can see the back sides of the huge balloons on the pedestals (you can’t see the spelling mistake on the other side from here).

The Interim Days

In between the girl’s wedding and the boy’s wedding we had two days off.  While that sounds like two days to rest up from all the dancing at the first wedding (and for the men, to get over what must have been a killer hang over given all the vodka they consumed), like the majority of my trip, there really wasn’t a dull moment!

On Saturday, Eric and Evangeline stayed in Tovuz since they didn’t have to be back to Baku for work until Monday morning.  We had a whirlwind day at the Tovuz bazar, kabobs at my house with meat left over from the wedding (and since I only got one lulə kabob at the wedding, I definitely needed some kabob in my life!), a trip to the river, a trip to the park in town, and a visit to E & E’s super swanky hotel room!  Our time down at the river was probably one of my favorite visits I’ve had to the Kür because we brought some of our uncles along (or I guess they brought us since they were the ones driving) and one who is visiting from Russia decided that we should blast music from his huge SUV, so we had a riverbank dance party.  Most of it was Azeri music (although a lot of it was the more fast stuff that I usually don’t dance to because it’s more of a guys’ thing, so that was fun) but then he tried to get us to break it down to some 50 Cent… that only lasted about a minute before he could see it clearly wasn’t going to happen haha.  Next was the park in Tovuz which has gone CRAZY since I left!  They’ve added all sorts of rides so my sisters got Eric and me to ride the pirate ship (that swings really high in both directions) with them.  I think they thought I was going to be all scared (I wouldn’t agree to ride it until I’d seen it, but it looked surprisingly stable and legit so I agreed) but then they were freaking out and I was the super cool one who was able to keep my hands up the whole time :)  The girl behind us was crying she was so scared so at least my sisters were more stable than that!  It lasted a seriously long time though, and I think their sound system broke on the ride before us because the music had suddenly stopped, so we were riding in silence.  You don’t really think about the music when you’re on one of those rides, but try riding in silence, it’s weird!  To end the night, we went to get a look inside the Ayan Palace hotel.  It was in construction when I left Tovuz a few years ago so I had never seen it and my sisters, while they could vouch that it was seriously qəşəng, hadn’t seen it either.  Well, all I can say is that I never expected a hotel like that in the regions of Azerbaijan!  It was ridiculous with all sorts of gold décor, and yet not as tacky as I was sort of expecting.  We had my two little cousins along with us and they were super adorable, moving between the chairs in the lobby just saying “Ay Allah, nə rahatdır!” (“Oh my god, how comfortable!”) and then on the ride home discussing how they could all pool their money to save up for one night there (one of them was like “I have 3 manat 20 qəpik!” – the room cost 125 manat a night, it was pretty cute).


On Sunday, Tamilə müəllim and my older former students had arranged a trip for us up to the mountains to hang out at the springs/river.  It was really sweet of them because arranging a marşrutka to take us can be annoying and with the kabobs and everything that we bought up there it can be expensive.  As we went for a walk after eating, Tamilə müəllim made my day by telling the students that we were now going to play a game where everyone had to speak English for an hour and if you spoke any other language, you’d get a point.  The person with the most points at the end of the hour would have to clean the table and cut up the watermelon for the rest of us.  Some of the students then just refused to speak, but others did really get into it (especially if they felt they could win).  At one point the kids went climbing up this little gorge while Tamilə müəllim and I hung back taking some photos and talking.  By the time the kids came back, Tamilə müəllim and I had one point each because I yelled at her “yıxılma!” (“don’t fall!”) as she was climbing down from a rock and she said to me “Al, baxın” (“Take, look”) after she took my picture.  The kids got a good laugh hearing that we, the teachers, were also failing at the game!


The photo that caused both Tamilə müəllim and me to slip into Azeri